4 Reasons Surfers Get Overly Aggressive in the Lineup By Nesta This post was inspired by my recent trip to the north shore of Oahu. I have to admit: I was totally presumptuous in thinking that it would be difficult…
We continue our exploration of Surf Fiction with another (much shorter) story from Jeff McElroy. In “Nobody’s Waves,” we meet the narrator and his unnamed girlfriend as they head toward Big Sur, Calif., a place known for its incredible and…
Many years later, the narrator has forgotten about Sam the Chumash and his strange encounter in Jalama but as life piles on complications, the narrator is eventually reminded of what he said so long ago. Don’t miss next week’s finale. …
We’ve been following Nasima Atker and her life as Bangladesh’s only female surfer through Jaimal Yogis and The Most Fearless documentary for a while now. The crew recently launched a Kickstarter to help them finish the film and travel back…
Have you been holding your breath waiting to hear what Sam the Native American has to say for himself? Here we learn that it has something to do with chosen souls and a spirituality our narrator has never before considered.…
Cleaner Lines, More Sustainable Surfboards, pt. 2 By Mark Sankey (For part 1, go here) Shapers are always looking to garner feedback on their latest shapes, or have them proven in the most demanding conditions by the best riders. Last…
So were there really people watching the surfer from the shore (read part 3 here), or was he just suffering from a concussion? We’ll find out a bit more here, when things continue to get weird at Point Conception. Humqaq,…
Focus on Fins By Zac Heisey Attempting even the most basic surfing maneuvers without the aid of a fin will make you wonder how the ancient Hawaiians didn’t collectively torch their wooden olos and alaias after one session. There is…
When we were here last, Morrison had just told us it was the end. But now we start fresh again, with a surf session that is tainted by the feeling of being watched. Humqaq, part 3 By Jeff McElroy I…