21 06
Wayne Lynch is a surfing legend whose surfing and shaping influenced the direction of modern surfing.

The late 1960’s and early 1970’s in Australia was a time of great change and experimentation. Wayne blazed a unique and radical approach in the water and, as a result, helped to redefine what a surfboard could look like.

Photo – Adam Kobayashi

Today, Wayne’s life is almost identical to what it was 40 years ago. He still shapes surfboards and lives simply by the ocean in rural Australia. Over ten years ago, Wayne suffered a heart attack. But serious jeopardy to anyone’s health, our surfing heroes included, can have a way of radically altering everything underneath the surface. For Wayne it was a rebirth into the same skin.

In this portrait, Cyrus Sutton provides a window into Lynch’s new life. With a nod to Jack McCoy’s “Tubular Swells”, Another Day in the Life is crafted with ultra-fine cinematography and a spare and modernist feel. The viewer is transported back to the Wayne Lynch they grew up idolizing, while making current those admirations and anchoring them in the reality of human mortality.

Featured image by Ryan Heywood

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