Besides surfing, where do you draw your inspiration to keep creating, after already accomplishing such high “creative” levels?
Inspiration can come from many sources. It can come in a momentary flash. It can come from all things beautiful. Certainly for me life in all its beauty is more than enough to inspire a thousand lifetimes of creativity. Inspiration and creativity are inseparable – they exist within each other. As a surfer, being in the ocean is enough. There is so much natural beauty in the sea and the coastline and in each wave to keep me more than creatively satisfied. I give gratitude every day that I paddle out and ride waves with dolphins and other friends.
What are you working on now?
We have just completed a book/DVD on a journey we did in Tibet – “Journey to the Wesak Valley in TIBET”. The Wesak Valley is near the sacred mountain Mt.Kailas in Tibet. For Buddhists and Hindus it is the most sacred place of pilgrimage on the planet. The Wesak Festival held on the May full moon each year and is celebrated by hundreds of millions of people around the world. It is the celebration of the birth, life and enlightenment of the Buddha. We travelled to Tibet and filmed this festival in the Wesak Valley, until recently a “hidden valley” on the western border of Tibet
( www.wesakfilm.com ).
Music has always played a roll in your films and has continued along that path for years in surfing. What is that relationship between surfing and music that makes it so special?
For me surfing is pure art. It is the fluidity and rhythm of the wave plus it’s energy that is so beautiful and attractive. Music is the same. The two seem to harmonize perfectly and music says it so eloquently – there is no need for words. The purity of music is enough – it’s the perfect marriage.
How have the magazines changed since you started Tracks?
The quality has improved and generally of late the content also. There seems to be a shift towards real and important issues and a re-focus on sustainability and hopefully away from an overt focus on materialistic values.
You live on a nice country property away from the mainstream surfing world. How did you not allow yourself to get sucked into the mainstream flow?
The mainstream flow for me is a focus on the day to day qualities that surround us. We create our own worlds. As McTaggart – the founder of Greenpeace said not long before he died, “do not wait for governments or heads of corporations to make the changes necessary – you make the changes you want to see in the world”. Living in the country and to a certain extent isolated allows me to be more in touch with the realities of life and what is happening in this world. Isolated unity allows for a clear and pure connection. There’s no wasted thought or action or distractions, you stay focussed on what is important. I avoid “mainstream” media and stay focussed on the spiritual path.
What are you connected to besides surfing? And how do maintain your strong connection?
Meditation and yoga help you to stay connected……….. In a way when you surf you are already connected to both.
However, there are programs you can use in your life that will help you to remain focussed and certainly there are some great books available to assist with this. Doing yoga regularly also assists you in establishing a clearer magnetic energy field that will enhance your life on all levels.
Why do you think there is a growing trend of nostalgia in surfing? What was at heart of surfing in youth that the newer generation of surfers should focus on? What was going on back then that we should steer clear of?
Mostly I think nostalgia is the result of a dissatisfaction with life as it exists today. A yearning for a more simple life style without the complexities of modern living. What is important, that most people dont realize is that “modern living” is no substitute for life. They have traded their most precious time for commodities only to realize that the price paid was their life. The focus should be on NOW. Live life NOW. Be totally focussed in the moment and realize the precious and great opportunities that life offers you. Be awake to those opportunities. Avoid material or personal distractions. A great teacher once said “the way you heal yourself is to heal others, the way you uplift yourself is to uplift others”. Give the best wave to your friend or another surfer in the line – up …… lovingly and what comes as a result will be a rich life……….with plenty of waves.
What do you see as the key to the future of a happy world?