English surfer and writer, Daniel Crockett, is a man who, in the scope of art and literature, wears many hats. He’s composed short stories, poetry collections (he’s the guy who penned Beyond the Scars), and small exhibitions of film and photography that…
Describe your relationship to surfing…
We dated for years and she was playing hard to get. From an early age we went out on numerous dates and I found the whole thing pretty tough going, I thought I was getting somewhere and then out of nowhere I was in the doghouse. I remained interested though and I am glad I did. We used to go on dates and all I would get was stinky popcorn, but I dreamed of that perfect day where she would be clean and welcoming…and you know what, it happened, I lost my virginity and have been heavily corrupted ever since with an insatiable appetite for more.
What inspired you to translate your passion for surfing into a creative endeavor?
I am a bit of a hodad and I noticed Mother Ocean kept giving all the best waves to the arty folk and the musicians….so, I started hanging out with them more. Once I started hanging out with those types of people I started seeing surfing from another perspective and it is beautiful…so beautiful I had to document it.
How would you describe modern popular surfing culture?
I don’t…I am more interested in the ancient and unpopular.
What is the message behind Switchfoot 2?