Describe your relationship to surfing…
We dated for years and she was playing hard to get. From an early age we went out on numerous dates and I found the whole thing pretty tough going, I thought I was getting somewhere and then out of nowhere I was in the doghouse. I remained interested though and I am glad I did. We used to go on dates and all I would get was stinky popcorn, but I dreamed of that perfect day where she would be clean and welcoming…and you know what, it happened, I lost my virginity and have been heavily corrupted ever since with an insatiable appetite for more.
What inspired you to translate your passion for surfing into a creative endeavor?
I am a bit of a hodad and I noticed Mother Ocean kept giving all the best waves to the arty folk and the musicians….so, I started hanging out with them more. Once I started hanging out with those types of people I started seeing surfing from another perspective and it is beautiful…so beautiful I had to document it.
How would you describe modern popular surfing culture?
I don’t…I am more interested in the ancient and unpopular.
What is the message behind Switchfoot 2?
What kinds of things are we going to find in the book?
368 pages hardbound….2kilograms of paper and cardboard….over 1000 images…interviews and insights with many surfers, shapers, photographers, explorers, artists…
What was the process you went thru to determine contributors for Switchfoot 2?
Most of them were friends, or friends of friends…all with a like-minded take on surfing for the glide…Contributors that were hard to find, or off the radar were generally the ones I was looking for….but it wasn’t elitist by any means.
How would you like to see surfing’s place in society evolve?
It would be nice to see it go in the opposite direction to what it has been going for the last 20 years. It would be nice to see all the ‘sporty’ types who have taken up surfing to simply walk away and not be interested anymore. That would be a nice evolution, for it to go back to where it came from…to not be popular ….for it to go back to the ‘pre-gidget’ era….someone please build a time machine and take me and my friends there. It would be nice to see surfers come together and for you to be able to ask me a question about ‘surf culture’ and not ‘modern popular surfing culture’. Surfing is so fractured…Ideally it would be nice to see surfers evolve into a strong unit of people who all have one thing in common, the ocean. But, that is idealist. Within our surfing culture there are some lovely people, who collectively could do wondrous things, but like anything else there are also herds of *&^%$#@’s and the product of all the goodness within surfing is only as potent as the lowest common denominator and we all know how low that is….could we weed that out and evolve poetically? Possibly not at the moment, as surfing is being televised to the general public in an image that is attracting people on mass…
How does your wifey feel about your Oedipus complex with your Mother Ocean?
My Wife? … she has no idea that i am so infatuated with another lover….i mean, i am grooming myself for each and every visit, looking forward to our next encounter and wondering if it will be as illicit as the last. It is still exciting, its like being a teenager all over again. Seriously though, my wife’s cool… she surfs and loves being at the beach too, if she didn’t then it would all be a bit weird.